7 December 2008 Vacuum lines /Jeff Rose Ignition

Vacuum lines / cables

I rerouted the throttle, mixture and servo valve cables. I wasn't happy with the way I originally routed them and was concerned about them rubbing against the oil cooler hoses. This route looks much better.

In routing the vacuum lines, I connected the vacuum lines to the number 3 cylinder. The E-Mag, Jeff Rose Ignition, and the Dynon EMS vacuum sensor all need to connect to the manifold vacuum. I chose the #3 cylinder (the Fuel Injector port) on the bottom of the cylinder as the source. I'll be using the top port for my Fuel Injection.

I used standard Aeroquip 306-2 hose with 471-2D fittings forall the vacuum lines. The Line that went to the Dynon EMS Vacuum sensor is standard 1/4 inch automotive fuel/vacuum line.

Jeff Rose Ignition

                   

While connecting the vacuum sensor for the Jeff Rose ignition I wanted to install a Auroquip connector on the end of the hose that comes out of the vacuum sensor. In three attempts, the hose would break right at the connector, as if the hose had become brittle. Time to replace the hose!

I used standard Aeroquip 306-2 hose for the replacement hose. Its a snug fit inside the brass sleeve,

The inside diameter (ID) of the hose must be drilled up to fit over the barbed fitting of the vacuum sensor inside the sleeve. I used a 3/16 drill bit and ran it inside the hose about 1/2 inch.

Although I tore my unit completly apart, this isn't necessary. The hose can be replaced without doing any disassembly of the vacuum sensor unit.

1) Pull the old hose off. hold the brass insert and twist the hose as you pull it out.

2) The brass sleeve needs to be reamed out a little. Theres a burr on the end that prevents the new hose from sliding into the brass sleeve. Hold the brass sleeve tightly and use a screw driver to clean up the burr.

3) Using a standard Aeroquip 306-2 hose, The original 1/8 ID needs to be expanded out to 3/16 ID. I used a 3/16 drill bit and ran it down the inside about 1/2 inch.

4) Hold the hose beside the sleeve and mark the hose. This is the indicator for how far inside the sleeve the hose must be pushed in order to bottom out.

Put a little WD-40 on the outside of the hose and the inside of the sleeve. Hold the sleeve tightly and push/twist the hose into the sleeve, you want to bottom the hose out inside the sleeve. It should go all the way to the mark you made in the previous step.

For the leak test, suck on the other end of the hose a little, you should fell it hold the vacuum.

6 December 2008 Infinity Wing Attach Plate

Reminder - Do Not place ANY loads on the Infinity gear until ALL hardware is installed and tight. This includes the wing attach plate that the main trunion pin slides into.

If the wing plate is not installed and the plane is set down on the gear, the long arm of the gear leg (I call it a four foot crow bar) places twisting loads on the center spar mounting plate, particularrly the sleeve that the trunion pin slides through. This sleeve/plate node is designed for vertical loads, and cannot withstand any twisting loads, The result of twisting loads on the sleeve will be; the welds that hold the sleeve on the plate will usually break. You may also damage the plate/centerspar mounting.

The photo shows how I've installed the wing bolts to secure the wing attach plate. I used the regular wing bolts with washers and a standard fine threaded nut. When the trunion pin engages in the wing plate, there are no twisting loads placed on the center spar plate sleeve.

Again, Don't place ANY loads on the gear, or operate the gear without ALL hardware installed and tight.

NOTE - For those who are following along, The landing gear trunion wing plate in located inside the center spar. The two outboard wing attach bolts go through this plate and hold it against the inside of the outboard wing attach hardpoint. The result is, vertical forces generated by the gear are transfered to the wing attach fittings.

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